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IRENE  DWEN  PACE 


EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


BY  THE  SAME  AUTHOR 

ART   NEEDLEWORK 
AND  DESIGN 


EMBROIDERY 

STITCHES 

BY 
M.     E.     WILKINSON 


? 


NEW   YORK 

FREDERICK    A.    STOKES    COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 


THE  ANCHOR  PRESS,   LTD.,   T1PTREE,  ESSEX. 


PREFACE 

IN  this  collection  of  Embroidery  Stitches,  I  have  en- 
deavoured to  place  before  those  artists  who  are  interested 
in  needlecraft  an  exposition  of  the  most  useful  and  artistic 
stitches  that  have  formed  a  part  of  my  own  work  during 
several  years'  study  and  practice  of  Art  Embroidery.  Some  of 
these  will  be  familiar  to  Needle-artists  :  others  will  serve  to 
exemplify  how,  in  process  of  working,  fresh  stitches  may  be 
evolved  from  old  ones  ;  or  how,  when  originality  gains  ground 
entirely  new  stitches  become  apparent  and  workable. 

A  point  somewhat  overlooked  in  Art  Embroidery  is  the  fact 
that  each  separate  stitch  is  a  design  in  itself.  If  this  principle 
be  fully  recognised,  the  necessity  for  careful  and  systematic 
study  of  the  forms  and  functions  of  Embroidery  Stitches  will 
immediately  become  obvious  to  the  student  and  worker. 

"  Embroidery  Stitches  "  is  planned  with  a  view  to  facilitating 
reference,  and  to  affording  immediate  conception  of  the  inti- 
mate connection  between  illustration  and  explanation.  To 
attain  this  end,  the  illustrations  are  placed  in  uniform  spaces 
throughout  the  volume,  two  on  each  page  ;  and  in  each  case 
the  description  appears  opposite  its  corresponding  design. 

In  this  the  arrangement  differs  from  that  of  other  Needlework 
manuals,  in  affording  that  clearness,  sequence,  and  finality,  so 
agreeable  to  the  worker,  which  becomes  impossible  where 
illustrations  are  interspersed  at  irregular  intervals  in  a  con- 
tinuous letterpress. 

Every  endeavour  has  been  made  to  ensure  simplicity  and 
point  in  the  directions  ;  and  where  possible  in  a  book  of  this 
size,  suggestions  have  been  given  for  the  application  of  stitches 
to  useful  purposes. 

The  alphabetical  system  of  arrangement  has  been  adopted, 
as  being  most  suitable  for  a  book  of  reference. 

In  the  comparatively  few  cases  in  which  one  stitch  is  known 
by  two  names,  the  design  has  been  repeated  under  the  different 
headings,  to  maintain  clearness  and  alphabetical  sequence. 

M.  E.  Wilkinson. 
Kendal. 

Oct.  1912. 


2040 


vl 


EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


i.  ANCHOR  STITCH.— This  stitch  is  similar  to 
Horn  stitch,  but  with  a  longer  middle  portion.  To 
work,  make  two  side  stitches  joined  at  the  bottom  ; 
make  a  Chain  stitch  covering  the  joining,  fasten  this 
Chain  stitch  down  by  means  of  a  long  overcast  stitch, 
taking  the  needle  to  the  back  of  the  work. 


2.  ALGERIAN  STITCH.— A  kind  of  Cross  stitch 
somewhat  akin  to  Cretan  stitch,  but  worked  on  canvas. 
The  stitch  may  either  be  worked  very  closely  or  openly. 
Bring  the  needle  to  the  right  side  of  the  work.  Count 
about  five  threads  down,  take  up  three  threads.  Cross 
over  to  the  top  line,  and  continue  in  the  same  way. 
(See  Double  Algerian  stitch.) 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


3.  ALL-OVER  STITCH.— A  stroke  stitch  used  to 
work  groundings  where  no  particular  pattern  is  desired. 
The  stitch  is  made  in  any  direction  and  of  any  size. 


5 


4.  ALPHABET  STITCH.— A  species  of  Couchm 
used  for  working  monograms,  etc.  Lay  strands  of 
cotton  or  wool  along  the  main  lines  of  the  letter,  forming 
a  padding.     Work  over  these  as  in  ordinary  Couching. 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


5.  APPLIQUE  STITCH.— A  stitch  used  in  applique 
work  to  attach  one  material  to  another— in  reality  a 
kind  of  buttonholing,  but  beginning  from  the  left  hand 
side,  and  worked  towards  the  worker,  whereas  correct 
buttonholing  is  worked  away  from  the  worker.  The 
latter  stitch  makes  a  knot,  which  Applique  stitch 
avoids.  The  stitch  is  necessarily  worked  very  closely 
over  the  raw  edge  of  the  applique  material,  to  avoid 
fraying. 


6.  BACK  STITCH. — A  neat  stitch  used  to  orna- 
ment linen  or  fine  canvas.  Bring  the  needle  to  the 
surface  of  the  material,  insert  it  two  threads  behind  the 
working  thread,  take  up  four  threads  forward,  bringing 
the  needle  up  two  threads  in  front  of  the  working  thread. 
Continue  taking  two  threads  behind  and  two  before 
the  working  thread,  putting  the  needle  each  time  into 
the  same  hole  as  the  last  stitch.  The  beauty  of  the 
stitch  depends  upon  its  perfect  regularity.  It  is  best 
to  draw  a  thread  for  a  guide. 


7 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


7.  BALL  STITCH. — A  stitch  used  in  making  orna- 
mental balls  for  children.  Bind  some  loose  rags 
tightly  together  into  a  ball.  Wind  string  across  as 
in  the  illustration,  forming  sections.  Thread  a  needle 
with  bright-coloured  wool,  and  work  round  and  round, 
passing  the  needle  each  time  under  a  strand  of  string. 
If  different  colours  be  used  the  effect  is  very  pleasing. 


8.  BAR  STITCH. — A  stitch  used  in  lace  and  other 
open  work,  to  connect  edges  by  crossing  over  a  space. 
Pass  threads  across  from  one  edge  to  the  other  and  work 
over  these.  The  bars  may  be  plain  or  twisted,  as  in 
(</).  or  buttonholed  (//).  or  overcast  closely  as  in  [c), 
and  may  be  single  or  in  groups  of  threes,  fours,  etc. 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


9.  BASKET  STITCH.— This  is  a  distinctive  stitch 
from  that  used  in  Basket  Couching  (see  Couching), 
and  is  a  kind  of  Cross  stitch.  To  work,  draw  two  parallel 
lines  any  distance  apart  and  mark  dots  at  even  distances 
on  both  lines.  Bring  the  needle  from  the  under  to  the 
upper  side  of  the  material  on  the  first  dot  on  the  lower 
line.  Cross  over  and  insert  in  the  third  dot  on  the  top 
line,  bringing  it  out  on  the  corresponding  dot  on  the 
lower  line.  Put  the  needle  into  the  second  dot  on  the 
top  line,  bring  out  on  the  second  dot  on  the  lower  line, 
and  cross  over  to  dot  four.  Continue  the  pattern  in 
this  way. 


10.  BATTLEMENT  STITCH.— Formed  of  a  series 
of  long  and  short  stitches,  making  a  species  of  fret 
pattern.  It  may  be  worked  in  any  size,  and  either 
single,  double,  or  treble  lines. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


ii.  BEAD  STITCH.  The  stitch  used  in  making 
representations  of  rows  of  beads.  Each  group  consists 
of  three  Satin  stitches,  a  central  one  with  two  side 
stitches. 


12.  BERRY  STITCH.— This  stitch  is  used  for 
working  berries,  seeds  of  fruit,  etc.  It  is  a  small  Satin 
stitch,  worked  as  for  bead  work.  It  may  be  used 
padded  or  otherwise.  The  inner  portion  should  be 
coloured  strands,  with  a  black  or  dark  outline. 


13 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


14 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


13.  BOAT  STITCH.— A  long-and-short  stitch 
arranged  for  insertions.  To  be  effective  it  should  be 
worked  in  two  shades,  the  deeper  for  the  outer  portion. 


14.  BRANCHING  STITCH.— A  series  of  small 
stroke  stitches  used  in  the  representation  of  branchings 
in  Natural  Needlework. 


-5 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


15.  BRICK  STITCH.— An  all-over  or  grounding- 
stitch.  It  may  be  used  as  a  Couching,  or  in  simple 
series  of  single  lines  as  in  the  illustration. 


16.  BUCKLE  STITCH.— This   may   be   worked   in 

straight  lines  as  in  ((),  or  with  tiny  satin  stitches  as 
in  (>,). 


17  B 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


17.  BULLION  STITCH.— A  raised  stitch  falling 
in  rolls  on  the  surface  of  the  work.  The  working  is 
the  same  as  for  French  knots,  and  the  rolls  may  be 
single  (a),  or  in  groups  (6).  Draw  three  parallel  lines 
as  guides.  Bring  up  the  needle  at  (c),  insert  it  at  (d), 
and  bring  out  again  at  (c)  in  the  position  shewn. 
Twist  the  thread  about  six  times  round  the  needle. 
Hold  the  roll  thus  made  with  the  thumb  to  prevent 
it  slipping  off.  Draw  the  needle  through  the  roll. 
Turn  the  roll  upwards  to  (d),  lying  as  in  (a)  and  (b). 
Insert  the  needle  at  (d),  bring  out  at  (c),  and  make  a 
similar  stitch  to  the  left.  On  completing  each  stitch 
always  bring  the  needle  out  in  correct  position  for 
beginning  the  next. 


18.  BULLION-AND  STAR  STITCH.— Three  or  six 

el<>se  rows  of  Bullion  stitches,  with  a  branching  straight 
stitch  between. 


19 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


20 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


19.  BUTTON  STITCHES.— These  are  used  in 
attaching  plain  or  ornamental  buttons.  The  stitches 
may  be  back-stitched  in  rings,  as  in  (a),  or  crossed  to 
form  a  star  falling  in  the  centre  of  the  button,  as  in  (b). 


20.  BUTTONHOLE  BARS.— Used  in  lace,  em- 
broidery and  drawn-thread  work.  To  work,  pass  two 
or  three  threads  from  side  to  side  and  work  the  stitches 
over  the  threads. 

(a)  For  single  stitch  bars  work  stitches  one  way  only. 

(b)  For  double  stitch  work  up  one  side,  but  not  very 
closely  ;  turn  at  the  end,  and  work  down  the  other 
side,  putting  one  stitch  between  each  two  taken 
previously. 

(c)  For  groups  of  bars,  work  three  or  four  bars  close 
together,  with  spaces  between  the  groups. 


21 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


22 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


21.  BUTTONHOLE  STITCH.— There  are  several 
kinds  of  buttonholing,  all  variations  of  the  plain 
stitch.  An  ordinary  buttonhole  may  have  both  ends 
round,  both  square,  or  one  each  round  and  square. 
Buttonholes  should  be  worked  accurately  by  a  thread. 
The  corners  contain  seven  stitches  geometrically 
arranged  (see  (a)  and  (b)).  To  work  a  buttonhole, 
hold  the  work  under  the  thumb  with  the  edges  away 
from  the  worker.  Begin  by  slipping  the  needle  between 
the  edges,  bringing  it  out  on  the  surface  about  four 
or  five  threads  in.  Put  the  needle  over  the  edge  of 
the  buttonhole  to  the  under  side,  insert  it  again  about 
two  threads  from  where  it  came  out  before.  While  still 
in  this  position,  throw  the  thread  over  the  point  of 
the  needle  from  left  to  right,  forming  a  loop.  Pull  the 
needle  through,  and  draw  up  closely  into  a  firm  knot 
at  the  edge  of  the  buttonhole.  Repeat,  making  all 
stitches  uniform. 


22.  BUTTONHOLE  STITCHES.— Buttonhole  stitch 
may  be  arranged  in  many  ways  to  give  variety  in 
ornamental  edges.  The  illustrations  shew  (a)  Dog- 
tooth buttonhole  ;  (6)  Serrated  buttonhole  ;  (c) 
Scalloped  buttonhole  ;    {d)  Fringed  buttonhole. 

In  the  last  example  the  working  thread  is  passed  over 
a  mesh  after  each  stitch,  giving  uniform  length  to  the 
loops.  A  netting  mesh,  lead  pencil,  ruler,  etc.,  will 
serve  the  purpose. 


23 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


23.  BUTTONHOLE    WITH    CHAIN    STITCH.- 
The  buttonholing  is  worked  first  in  small  or  large  waves, 
and  the  Chain  stitch  is  added  afterwards.     The  size 
of  the  waves  may  be  increased  if  desired,  to  adapt  the 
pattern  to  varying  spaces  (see  a). 


24.  CABLE  STITCH. — A  variety  of  Chain  stitch, 
but  more  intricate  in  the  working.  Bring  the  needle  to 
the  surface,  hold  the  thread  down  under  the  left  thumb  ; 
pass  the  needle  from  left  to  right  under  the  portion  of 
thread  held  down,  as  at  (a).  Turn  the  needle  round 
perpendicularly  with  the  loop  of  thread  on  it.  as  at  (b), 
still  holding  down  the  thread.  Reverse  the  needle, 
as  at  (c),  insert  it  in  the  last  Chain  stitch  just  below 
where  the  thread  last  came  out,  and  bring  it  out  below 
in  position  for  the  next  stitch.  Pull  the  loop  tightly 
round  the  head  of  the  needle  ;  release  the  thumb,  and 
draw  the  needle  through,  keeping  the  thread  as  the 
loop  for  a  Chain  stitch.  This  makes  a  series  of  Chain 
stitches  connected  by  a  small  tight  loop. 


25 


EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


26 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


25.  CAP   STITCH. — This   may   bo   made   in    three 
ways : — 

(a)  A  long  stroke  with  two  short  strokes. 

(b)  A  long  stroke  with  two  Chain  stitches. 

(c)  A  long  stroke  with  three  Chain  stitches. 
The  stitch  is  suitable  for  very  small  borderings. 


26.  CAPTURING  STITCH  is  used  for  borders  or 
as  an  all-over  stitch.  Bring  the  needle  to  the  surface 
of  the  material.  Make  a  small  stitch,  bringing  out  the 
needle  a  little  further  on  (a).  Put  the  needle  in  where 
it  went  in  before,  and  bring  it  out  halfway  down  the 
line  made  by  the  half  stitch,  and  inside  of  it  (b).  Make 
a  similar  stitch  in  any  direction  so  that  it  crosses  over 
the  second  line  of  thread  (c).  Thus  the  thread  always 
crosses  a  line  at  the  half. 


27 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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28 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


27.  CARPET  STITCH.— A  term  sometimes  applied 
to  varieties  of  Cross  stitch  or  such  a  stitch  as  Cashmere 
stitch,  and  also  to  a  Rug  stitch  worked  with  a  crochet 
hook  and  thick  wool.  In  the  latter  short  lengths  of 
wool  are  cut ;  each  length  is  folded  into  two  ;  a  crochet 
hook  is  inserted  in  the  loop  thus  made  at  the  fold,  and 
the  fold  drawn  through  the  canvas  from  the  top  surface 
in  and  out  again  to  the  top  a  thread  or  two  further  on. 
This  is  half  the  stitch.  In  the  other  half  the  hook 
catches  the  two  loose  ends  and  draws  them  through  the 
original  loop.  All  the  loose  ends  thus  come  to  the 
surface  of  the  canvas,  where  they  can  be  fringed  out 
to  give  a  matted  appearance. 


28.  CASHMERE  STITCH.— A  kind  of  Half-cross 

stitch  supposed  to  represent  the  texture  of  cashmere 
material.  To  work,  proceed  diagonally,  and  take  first 
one  stitch  across  one  thread,  and  then  two  stitches 
across  two  threads  of  the  canvas.  Larger  stitches 
may  be  used  if  desired,  but  the  same  proportion  must 
be  preserved  throughout. 


29 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHE? 


30 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


29.  CASTLE    STITCH. — Draw     parallel    lines    to 
gauge  correct  distances,  and  work  with  straight  strokes. 


30.  CHAIN  STITCH. — So  called  from  its  resemb- 
lance to  the  links  of  a  chain.  Each  stitch  is  formed  by 
inserting  the  needle  in  the  last  loop  made,  and  bringing 
it  out  a  little  lower  than  where  it  went  in.  Bring  the 
needle  up  from  the  wrong  side,  hold  the  thread  down 
with  the  left  thumb,  put  the  needle  back  into  the  hole 
it  came  from,  and  bring  it  out  again  about  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  below  the  last  loop. 


31 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


32 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


31.  CHAIN  STITCH  (TWISTED).— The  difference 
between  this  and  plain  Chain  stitch  is,  that  the  links 
are  connected  by  a  species  of  bar  or  twist.  This  is 
achieved  by  inserting  the  needle,  not  in  the  last  loop 
made,  as  in  ordinary  chain  stitch,  but  to  the  left-hand 
side  of  it,  and  slightly  lower  down. 


32.  CHECK  STITCH. — A  stitch  used  in  decorative 
darning  to  fonn  an  ornamental  check  pattern,  which 
may  be  varied  at  will  according  to  the  number  of 
threads  taken  and  omitted.     (See  Darning.) 


33 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


34 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


33.  CIRCLE  STITCH.— A  back  stitch  used  for 
ornamental  circles,  conventional  flower  centres,  or 
for  attaching  ornamental  buttons. 


34-  CIRCULAR  ARROW  STITCH.— Arrow  stitch 
arranged  circularly  ;  suitable  for  embroidered  costume 
buttons. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


35.  CLUSTER  STITCHES.— Clusters  in  needle- 
work are  groups  of  similar  stitches  placed  in  close 
proximity  to  form  a  grounding  or  powdering,  or  for  the 
centres  of  flowers,  etc.  French  knots,  dots,  picots, 
etc.,  are  the  stitches  most  useful  for  this  purpose.  The 
illustration  shews  (a)  Knot  clusters  ;  (b)  Dot  clusters  ; 
(c)  Cross  clusters  ;  (d)  Line  clusters. 


36.  CLOTH  STITCH. — A  stitch  used  in  pillow-lace 
making,  but  which  may  be  adapted  to  needle-weaving. 
It  is  formed  by  simply  weaving  a  thread  with  a  needle 
over  and  under  transverse  threads  in  regular  rotation. 
The  stitch  is  useful  for  making  ornamental  ribbon-like 
borders. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


37.  COMB  STITCH.— This  stitch  is  used  for  borders 
to  give  a  serrated  appearance.  It  may  be  wide  or 
narrow. 


38.  CORAL  STITCH.— May  be  worked  as  single, 
double,  treble,  or  more.  Draw  two  parallel  lines  as 
guides.  Bring  the  needle  up  to  the  right  side  of  the 
material,  hold  the  thread  down  under  the  left  thumb, 
make  a  stitch  on  the  line  to  the  right,  bringing  up  the 
needle  over  the  thread  which  is  still  held  down  ;  release 
the  thread  and  draw  it  up.  Proceed  in  a  similar  way 
to  make  stitches  alternately  to  the  left  and  right, 
holding  down  the  thread  each  time.  The  top  of  each 
stitch  must  be  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  last  stitch 
worked.  Double  Coral  has  two,  and  treble  Coral 
three  side  stitches.     More  may  be  added  if  desired. 


39 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


40 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


39.  CORDING  STITCH.— A  stitch  very  similar  to 
Coral  stitch,  but  worked  closely,  and  with  stitches 
only  taken  in  one  direction,  i.e.,  from  right  to  left, 
instead  of  from  each  side  alternately. 


40.  CRACKER  STITCH.— Work  five  parallel  lines 
as  a  centre,  and  make  branching  stitches  at  each  end. 
The  stitch  may  be  worked  any  size,  and  groups  may  be 
connected  if  desired. 


41 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


mm 


42 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


41.  CRETAN  STITCH.— A  stitch  which,  when 
worked  closely,  gives  the  appearance  of  close  plaiting. 
To  work,  draw  two  parallel  lines,  bring  the  needle  from 
the  under  to  the  upper  surface  of  the  material,  on  the 
left-hand  corner  of  the  lowest  line  but  one.  The  needle 
in  working  is  always  at  right  angles  to  these  lines. 
Insert  the  needle  in  the  top  line  slightly  further  to  the 
right  of  where  it  came  out  on  the  bottom  line,  and  take 
a  small  stitch  downwards  ;  then  insert  it  in  the  bottom 
line  and  similarly  take  a  small  stitch  upwards.  In 
taking  the  stitch  the  thread  must  be  kept  to  the  left 
of  the  needle  as  in  the  illustration,  or  the  plaiting  will 
not  take  place.  The  illustration  is  drawn  more  openly 
than  worked,  in  order  to  distinguish  the  threads. 


42.  CREVICE  STITCH.— A  stitch  worked  in  slant- 
ing lines  for  borders.  Lines  should  always  be  drawn 
as  a  guide  to  correct  spacing. 


43 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


/ 

- 

44 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


43.  CREWEL  STITCH.- — Sometimes  called  Stem 
stitch,  the  most  useful  of  all  stitches  for  outlines,  veins, 
stems,  etc.  It  may  be  used  either  in  large  or  small 
form,  and  is  adaptable  to  most  minute  curves  and  lines. 
Draw  a  line,  begin  at  the  bottom  and  work  upwards. 
Keeping  the  needle  pointed  downwards,  take  a  small 
stitch  each  time  as  in  the  illustration,  and  repeat  for 
the  length  required. 


44.  CRICKET  STITCH.— Similar  to  Five-line  stitch, 
but  with  two  short  strands  joining  the  bars  at  the  top. 


45 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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46 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


45.  CROSS  STITCH. — A  stitch  adapted  for  working 
on  canvas  or  coarse  linen.  It  has  three  forms  : — (a) 
Half-cross  stitch  ;  (b)  Whole-cross  stitch  ;  (c)  Double- 
cross  stitch.  The  whole  stitch  forms  a  perfect  square. 
The  crossings  must  be  uniform,  i.e.,  the  top  halves 
must  all  slant  in  the  same  direction,  likewise  the  bottom 
halves.  Double-cross  stitch  must  be  worked  over  an 
uneven  number  of  threads  to  allow  a  space  for  the 
horizontal  central  cross,  as  in  (c). 


46.  CROSS-AND-TRIANGLE  STITCH.— This  com- 
bination of  stitches  is  very  suitable  for  borders.  Variety 
could  be  given  by  working  the  crosses  in  one  colour 
and  the  triangles  in  another. 


47 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


47.  CROSS  STITCH  (Variegated). — Ordinary  Cross 
stitch  may  be  variegated  in  numerous  ways  by  the 
addition  of  extra  stitches,  to  form  ornamental  borders, 
as  in  (a),  (b),  (c). 


48.  CHRYSANTHEMUM  STITCH.— This  stitch  is 
similar  to  Loop  stitch,  but  much  longer,  and  is  used 
for  Chrysanthemum  petals.  The  leaves  may  be  quite 
simple,  as  in  the  illustration,  or  each  may  be  secured  by 
a  small  stitch  as  in  Loop  stitch. 


49  D 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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50 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


49.  COUCHED  HERRING-BONE.— This  makes  ex- 
tremely pretty  borders,  especially  when  used  outside 
a  row  of  ornamental  darning  with  a  fringed  edge. 
The  Couching  stitch  should  always  be  a  different  colour 
from  the  Herringbone  stitch. 


50.  COUCHINGS. — A  term  used  to  denote  the 
attachment  of  loose  strands  of  material  to  a  foundation 
by  means  of  other  working  threads.  Couching  is  distinct 
from  Applique,  which  is  a  term  usually  applied  to  the 
attachment  of  solid  pieces  of  material  to  a  foundation. 
The  chief  kinds  of  Couching  arc  : — Plain,  Basket, 
Battlement,  Brick,  Diagonal,  Diamond,  Floral,  Geo- 
metrical, Tartan,  and  Check  Couchings. 

(a)  Plain.— Strands  of  material  are  laid  in  rows  and 
fastened  by  single  stitches. 

(b)  Basket. — Gives  the  effect  of  interlaced  strands. 
Lay  a  foundation  of  cord  or  thick  cotton  to  form  a 
padding.  At  right  angles  arrange  a  covering  of  strands 
of  silk,  wool,  etc.  Fasten  in  uniform  groups  by  means 
of  upright  stitches  falling  alternately  between  the  hues 
of  padding  material. 

(c)  Battlement. — Couching  in  the  form  of  battlement 
outlines. 

(d)  Brick.— Strands  are  placed  in  the  form  of  brick- 
work. 


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EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


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52 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


51.  COUCHINGS  [continued)  : — 

(e)  Diagonal. — The  strands  are  arranged  diagonally 
and  couched  at  right  angles. 

(/)  Diamond. — The  strands  arc  arranged  to  form  a 
diamond  pattern,  and  secured  at  the  crossing  points 
by  a  small  stitch. 

(g)  Floral. — Leaves,  flowers,  etc.,  may  be  couched  in 
outline  or  as  solids. 

(h)  Geometrical. — Geometrical  forms  may  also  be 
couched  in  outline  or  as  solids. 


52.  COUCHINGS      (continued). —Stitches      already 
worked  may  be  couched  by  means  of  other  stitches. 

(a)  shews  Couched  Herring-bone. 

(b)  is  Couched  Basket  stitch. 

The  Couching  stitch  should  always  be  of  a  relieving 
shade,  to  be  effective. 


53 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


54 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


53.  COUCHINGS  (continued). — Couchings  may  be 
worked  in  the  form  of  tartans  or  checks.  Strands  of 
coloured  silks  or  narrow  ribbons  may  thus  be  couched 
according  to  the  kind  of  pattern  desired.  The  illustra- 
tion represents  rows  of  narrow  ribbons  so  couched  with 
dark  silk. 


54.  CUP-AND-BALL  STITCH.— This  stitch,  so 
called  from  its  appearance,  consists  of  one  long  upright 
line,  with  two  branching  strokes,  between  which  is 
worked  a  circle  in  solid  Chain  stitch.  It  is  suitable 
for  borderings. 


D3 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


56 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


55.  DARNING. — A  species  of  weaving  with  the 
needle  used  in  producing  patterns  by  utilising  the 
foundation  threads  of  the  material  as  warp  threads. 
In  ornamental  darning  little  or  no  working  shews  on 
the  under  side,  the  working  thread  being  kept  as  much 
as  possible  on  the  upper  side  to  shew  the  pattern  in 
relief  The  chief  kinds  of  ornamental  darning  are  : — 
(a)  Straight  ;  {b)  Waved  ;  (c)  Diamond  ;  (d)  Vandyke. 


56.  DIAGONAL-AND-DOT  STITCH.— A  pretty 
stitch  for  borders,  formed  of  long  slanting  lines  and 
dots.  The  latter  should  be  worked  in  a  relieving 
shade. 


57 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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58 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


57.  DIAMOND  STITCH.— A  series  of  short  strokes 
forming  a  diamond.  It  could  be  ornamented  with 
dots  as  in  the  illustration.  This  makes  very  pretty 
and  useful  borders,  and  can  also  be  used  as  an  all-over 
pattern. 


5cS.  DOT  STITCH.— A  simple  stitch  used  for  the 
centres  of  flowers,  small  powderings,  or  groundings, 
etc.  It  is  made  by  taking  up  a  small  portion  of  the 
material  on  the  needle,  and  pulling  the  thread  through, 
bringing  up  the  needle  where  the  next  stitch  is  to  be 
made. 


59 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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60 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


59.  DOT-AND-CROSS  STITCH.— A  pretty  border 
stitch,  useful  either  in  single  or  double  lines.  Guiding 
lines  should  be  drawn  before  working. 


60.  DOT-AND-SCALLOP  STITCH.— This  combina- 
tion of  stitches  is  the  best  for  ornamental  edges  of 
material,  and  is  suitable  as  a  pretty  finish  for  children's 
embroidered  costumes,  as  well  as  articles  for  household 
adornment.  The  scallop  may  be  either  buttonholed 
or  worked  in  close  Satin  stitch  over  a  cord  to  keep  in  the 
raw  edges. 


61 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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62 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


61.  DOUBLE  ALGERIAN  STITCH.— Work  one 
row  of  Algerian  stitch,  and  then  another  row  between 
the  first  in  a  different  colour.     (See  Algerian  stitch). 


62.  DOUBLE  CHAIN  STITCH.— The  ordinary 
Chain  stitch  is  first  worked,  and  after  each  stitch  a 
second  smaller  stitch  is  worked  inside  the  first.  A  pretty 
variety  is  to  work  with  two  needles  simultaneously, 
one  threaded  with  dark  and  the  other  with  light  silk, 
for  the  two  stitches. 


63 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


64 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


63.  DOUBLE  CORAL  STITCH.— This  stitch  is  a 
species  of  the  Coral  stitch  described  in  No.  38.  It  has 
two  branchings  on  each  side. 


64.  DOUBLE  FEATHER  STITCH.— The  same  as 
simple  Feather  stitch,  but  with  the  groups  of  branchings 
in  twos  at  each  side. 


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fcMBROIDEKY    STITCllKS 


60 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


65.  DOUBLE  LINE  STITCH.— For  simple  borders 
requiring  little  work  this  is  useful.  It  may  be  varied 
with  dots,  or  crosses,  between  the  groups  of  lines. 


66.  DOUBLE  SLANTING-ARROW  STITCH.— 
Double  rows  of  Arrow  stitch  forming  two  triangular 
forms.     (See  Slanting-Arrow.) 


67 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


67.  DOUBLE  WAVED-CHAIN-AND-DOT 
STITCH. — This  variety  of  Chain  stitch  is  a  pleasant 
change  from  the  ordinary  straight  form.  Three  or 
four  lines  could  be  worked  if  desired.  The  dot  accent- 
uates the  waves. 


68.  DUMB-BELL  STITCH.— A  series  of  upright 
or  slanting  lines,  with  a  ^mall  back  stitch  at  the  top  and 
bottom. 


69 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


70 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


69.  EASEL  STITCH. — A  stitch  suitable  for  working 
ornamental  perpendicular  lines  of  embroidery. 


70.  EYELET  STITCH.— This  stitch  is  used  for 
small  eyelet-holes  in  embroidery.  The  working  is 
usually  very  close  overcasting,  but  sometimes  a  firm 
buttonhole  is  used  instead  where  the  material  is  inclined 
to  fray.  To  work,  first  run  one  or  two  threads  round 
the  eyelet-hole  to  keep  the  threads  together,  and  then 
work  over  these  threads.  This  gives  a  raised  effect 
to  the  work.  Eyelet-holes  are  generally  round,  but 
not  necessarily.  The  working  is  sometimes  done  first 
and  the  centre  cut  away  afterwards. 


7* 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


71.  FAGGOT  STITCH. — A  small  overcast  or  button- 
hole stitch,  used  to  connect  groups  of  loose  stitches. 


72.  FASTENING-OFF  STITCH.— The  stitch  used 
in  finishing  a  line  of  sewing.  The  illustration  shews 
the  fastening-off  in  seaming.  At  the  end  of  the  row 
the  work  is  turned  round  and  the  working  is  continued 
again  over  half  a  dozen  or  more  stitches  before  cutting 
off  the  thread. 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


73.  FASTENING-ON  STITCH.— The  stitch  for 
beginning  such  work  as  seaming,  frilling,  etc.  The 
loose  end  of  thread  is  left  when  the  needle  is  first 
inserted,  and  this  is  secured  with  the  first  few  stitches. 


74.  FEATHER  STITCH. — The  ancient  form  was  a 
kind  of  Satin  stitch,  so  arranged  that  the  stitches  fitted 
into  each  other  and  covered  the  whole  of  the  foundation. 
The  modern  form  is  an  open  stitch  worked  similarly 
to  Coral  stitch,  but  the  needle  is  placed  in  a  slanting 
direction  instead  of  straight.  Draw  three  lines  ;  bring 
up  the  needle  on  the  centre  one.  Hold  the  thread 
under  the  left  thumb.  Insert  the  needle  on  the  left- 
hand  side  line,  and  bring  it  out  slightly  lower  than  where 
the  thread  last  came  out,  keeping  the  thread  flat  on  the 
material.  Draw  through  and  take  a  similar  stitch  to 
the  right.  Continue  working  alternate  stitches  right 
and  left.  The  stitch  may  be  worked  as  single,  double, 
treble,  etc.,  according  to  the  number  of  stitches  taken 
to  form  the  side  groups,  as  in  (a),  (b),  (c). 


/  D 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


76 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


75.  FELLING.— This  is  the  stitch  used  where  the 
edges  of  two  pieces  of  material  are  to  be  joined  together. 
The  edges  are  first  turned  down,  and  the  two  pieces 
seamed  together.  The  work  is  then  turned  and  a  hem 
formed  at  the  other  side,  which  may  either  be  secured 
by  hemstitch  or  by  a  running  stitch. 


76.  FIGURE  STITCH.— This  is  the  Satin  stitch 
which  is  used  for  working  raised  figures.  Strands  of 
cotton  are  first  laid  down,  following  the  lines  of  the 
figure,  and  the  working  is  then  done  as  in  the  illustra- 
tion. 


77 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


rS 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


77.  FINE-DRAWING  STITCH.— This  is  a  running 
or  darning  stitch  used  in  drawing  together  the  edges  of 
line  material  when  it  is  not  desired  to  hem  or  seam 
them.  The  needle  is  run  lightly  between  the  threads 
on  each  side,  and  the  edges  drawn  close  together. 


78.  FINISHING  STITCH.— The  last  securing  stitch 
in  any  kind  of  needlework.  In  some  cases  the  thread 
is  run  along  a  short  distance,  in  others  an  extra  stitch 
is  taken  over  the  top  of  the  previous  one  ;  in  knitting 
and  crochet  the  finishing  stitch  is  made  by  drawing  the 
end  of  thread  through  the  last  stitch  made.  (See 
Fastening-off.) 


79 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


80 


EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


79.  FIRE  STITCH. — This  consists  of  long  stitches 
in  any  direction,  joined  at  the  top  but  not  at  the  bottom. 
So  called  from  its  resemblance  to  flame  when  worked. 


80.  FISH-BONE  STITCH.— A  stitch  which,  when 
worked  in  series,  resembles  the  backbone  of  a  fish. 
Similar  to  Feather  stitch,  but  differentiated  by  the 
needle  always  coming  up  centrally  between  the  two 
side  lines,  and  being  worked  rather  more  closely. 
Sometimes  a  back  stitch  is  used  as  the  central  con- 
necting stitch. 


8 1 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


82 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


81.  FISH-SCALE  STITCH.— A  loose  Buttonhole 
stitch  used  for  working  fish-scales.  It  is  useful  for 
working  representations  of  fish  in  designs,  seascapes  in 
natural  needlework,  and  in  making  ornamental  pocket- 
pincushions  in  fish-shape,  as  in  the  illustration.  Work 
a  row  of  Buttonhole  stitches  across  the  space,  fasten 
on  at  the  side,  turn  back  and  work  one  Buttonhole 
stitch  into  each  previous  loop  ;  continue  in  this  way 
until  the  space  is  filled,  leaving  the  loops  loose,  but 
fastening  the  thread  at  each  side  of  the  space  to  be  filled. 


82.  FIVE-LINE  STITCH.— Similar  to  Four-line 
stitch,  but  with  five  upright  strands.  Useful  for 
borders. 


83 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


83.  FLAG  STITCH.— This  is  formed  of  six  strokes 
to  represent  the  outline  of  a  flag.  It  is  useful  for 
borders. 


84.  FLAKE  STITCH.— A  small  stitch  like  a  Stroke 
stitch,  used  to  ornament  leaves  and  geometrical  shapes 
or  as  a  ground-work  powdering. 


8- 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


86 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


85.  FLORENTINE  STITCH.— This  is  similar  to 
Cashmere  stitch,  with  the  difference  that  the  stitches 
are  alternatively  over  one  and  two  threads,  slanting 
in  the  same  direction 


86.  FOUR-LINE  STITCH —Similar  to  Three-line 
stitch,  but  with  four  upright  strands. 


37 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


87.  FRENCH  KNOTS.— Used  for  filling  in  centres 
of  flowers,  dot-markings  on  leaves,  etc.  Bring  up  the 
thread  to  the  right  side  of  the  material,  and  hold  it 
down  under  the  thumb.  Twist  the  thread  three  or 
four  times  (according  to  the  size  of  knot  required) 
round  the  needle  between  the  thumb  and  linen,  still 
holding  down  the'thread.  Put  the  needle  back  to  the 
wrong  side  about  two  threads  behind  the  place  where 
it  came  out  a  first,  and  bring  it  out  at  the  exact  place 
where  the  next  knot  is  required.  Always  hold  down 
the  thread  as  long  as  possible  in  order  that  the  knot 
may  be  quite  tight. 


88     FRILLING     or     WHIPPING     STITCH.— A 

species  of  loose  overcasting  which  can  be  drawn  up  into 
a  frill.  It  is  usually  worked  on  soft  pliable  material 
such  as  mull-muslin  or  lawn.  Begin  from  the  right, 
and  use  the  left  thumb  to  form  a  roll  of  the  edge  of  the 
material  as  the  work  proceeds.  Work  about  half  a 
dozen  stitches  and  then  draw  up  the  thread.  The 
stitch  is  suitable  for  frills  for  embroidered  muslin 
cushion  covers,  small  collars,  etc. 


89 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


89.  FRINGE  STITCH  is  used  either  in  button- 
holing or  drawn-thread  work.  The  thread  is  carried 
over  a  mesh  before  making  the  next  stitch,  thus  forming 
a  loop,  which  is  secured  in  its  place  by  the  next  stitch 
taken.  (See  Buttonhole.)  The  edges  of  plain  material 
can  also  be  fringed  out  and  secured  by  a  hemstitch. 
The  fringe  can  be  secured  in  clusters  by  a  knotted 
stitch. 


90.  GATE  STITCH. — This  consists  of  series  of 
upright  lines  suitable  for  borders.  The  horizontal 
lines  may  be  either  darned,  couched,  or  backstitched. 


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EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


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92 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


91.  GERMAN  STITCH.— An  old  stitch  used  in 
attaching  materials  by  means  of  one  set  of  stitches.  A 
small  turning  having  been  made,  a  stitch  similar  to 
Fine-drawing  stitch  is  made  on  alternate  sides,  and  the 
edges  thus  drawn  close  together. 


92.  GIPSY  STITCH. — Formed  of  two  long  stitches 
and  one  shorter  one,  with  a  hook  or  small  cross-bar. 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


94 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


93.  GOBELIN  STITCH.— One  of  the  most  ancient 
of  stitches  ;  formerly  used  in  old  tapestry  work.  The 
stitch  is  perfectly  upright,  and  when  worked  on  canvas 
is  usually  two  threads  long  by  one  in  breadth.  Some- 
times a  padding  is  used  beneath  the  stitches  to  give 
a  raised  effect. 


94.  GRASS  STITCH. — Long  stitches  used  to  repre- 
sent grasses  in  Natural  Needlework.  These  may  be 
worked  into  a  straight  border  as  in  the  illustration,  or 
may  be  used  in  conjunction  with  Water-stitch. 


95 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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96 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


95.  GROUNDING  STITCHES.— Various  small 
stitches  used  in  embroidery  to  give  variety  in  back- 
grounds. The  most  common  are  various  kinds  of 
Darning  (see  Darning),  Knots  (see  French  Knots), 
Dots,  Rice  stitch  and  Honeycomb  (see  under  different 
headings).  The  illustration  shews  a  small  figure  with 
a  darned  background. 


96.  HAT  STITCH.— So  called  from  its  shape.  It 
may  be  used  for  borders  or  for  filling  in  spaces.  Make 
the  two  upright  strokes,  join  them  by  one  across  the 
top  and  a  longer  one  at  the  bottom.  As  a  grounding 
it  may  be  connected  by  Cross  stitches,  as  in  (h). 


97 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 

r- 


98 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


97.  HEMSTITCH. — An  ornamental  stitch  used  in 
drawn-thread  work  to  secure  the  edges  of  a  hem.  The 
stitch  is  in  two  parts.  First  take  four  or  five  threads 
on  the  needle,  then  put  the  needle  back  and  hem 
through  the  folded  material. 


98.  HERRING-BONE  STITCH.— An  ornamental 
stitch  used  for  borders  and  for  hemming  the  edges  of 
flannel  or  material  too  thick  to  fold  as  an  ordinary  hem. 
It  may  be  used  as  a  Plain  stitch  or  ornamented  with  a 
Couching  stitch.     (See  Couching.) 


99 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


ioo 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


99.  HEXAGON  or  HONEYCOMB  STITCH  is  a 
useful  stitch  for  groundings.  Each  line  is  one  small 
back  stitch,  and  joins  two  other  lines.  The  stitch  may 
be  worked  by  the  aid  of  upright  lines  drawn  as  guides. 
Make  a  row  of  stitches  slanting  alternately  from  right 
to  left  and  left  to  right.  Connect  these  by  small 
upright  lines.  Work  another  row  slanting  right  and 
left  as  in  the  illustration.  Continue  until  the  ground 
is  covered. 


ioo.  HONEYCOMB  STITCH  —The  same  as  Hexa- 
gon stitch. 


101 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


102 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


101.  HORN  STITCH. — A  stitch  somewhat  similar 
to  Wheat-ear  stitch,  but  not  joined  to  form  a  connected 
line.  To  work,  make  two  side  stitches  joined  at  the 
bottom.  Make  a  Chain  stitch  covering  the  joining, 
fasten  this  Chain  stitch  down  by  means  of  a  small 
overcast  stitch,  taking  the  needle  to  the  back  of  the 
work  and  bringing  it  out  in  readiness  for  the  next 
stitch. 


102.  HURDLE  STITCH.— This  combination  of 
lines  makes  a  pleasing  and  unique  border  where  a 
purely  conventional  pattern  is  required.  Guiding 
lines  should  be  drawn  to  ensure  accuracy. 


103 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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104 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


103.  ITALIAN  STITCH. — This  is  a  Square  Greek 
stitch  with  the  addition  of  Cross  stitches  from  corner 
to  corner.     (See  Square  Greek  stitch.) 


104.  INTERLACING  STITCH.— A  stitch  used 
where  an  open  border  is  required  for  embroidered 
squares,  etc.  Draw  out  threads  to  give  as  wide  a 
space  as  desired,  then  interlace  the  threads  which 
are  left  by  pulling  one  thread  over  the  next  with  the 
needle. 


io: 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


106 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


105.  INVERTED  FLAG  STITCH.— This  is  similar 
to  Flag  stitch,  and  may  be  used  as  single,  double,  or 
treble  rows. 


106.  KENSINGTON    STITCH.— Similar    to    Stem 
stitch. 


107 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


ro8 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


107.  LACE  STITCHES.— The  majority  of  Lace 
stitches  are  founded  on  a  species  of  Buttonhole.  In 
embroidery  the  stitch  is  used  to  cover  surfaces,  and 
may  be  used  as  an  ornament  for  leaves,  scrolls,  etc., 
as  in  the  illustration. 


108.  LADDER  STITCH.— Ladder  stitch  is  simply 
a  very  wide  chain,  but  made  with  two  strokes  of  the 
needle  instead  of  one,  to  give  the  necessary  width. 


109 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


no 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


109.  LATTICE  STITCH.— A  kind  of  interlaced 
Herring-bone.  It  may  be  worked  on  canvas  or  linen. 
Work  four  or  five  stitches  slanting  in  the  same  direction. 
Then  over  these  work  others  in  the  contrary  direction, 
but  interlace  afterwards  by  putting  the  needle  over  one 
and  under  another  of  the  stitches  first  made  (a).  If 
worked  on  a  large  scale  a  small  stitch  may  be  added 
to  the  points  of  juncture  afterwards,  and  this  gives  a 
very  pretty  effect  (b)  and  (<;)■. 


no.  LEAF  STITCH.— This  is  similar  to  Loop 
stitch.  It  may  be  used  for  small  leaves,  as  a  grounding, 
or  for  ornamental  motifs,  as  in  the  illustration. 


in 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


112 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


in.  LINE-AND-DOT  STITCH.— A    simple    com- 
bination useful  for  small  borders. 


112.  LONG-AND-SHORT  STITCH.— This  is  an 
adaptation  of  Satin  stitch  used  to  accentuate  floral 
forms  when  not  desiring  to  fill  them  in  solidly.  The 
stitches  should  follow  the  curvature  of  the  leaf  or 
flower.  The  monotony  of  a  succession  of  long  stitches 
is  broken  by  the  short  ones. 


113  H 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


113.  LONG-AND-SHORT  CHAIN  STITCH.— This 

is  a  pleasing  change  from  the  ordinary  Chain  stitch.  It 
may  be  arranged  in  a  variety  of  forms  according  to 
the  number  and  position  of  the  short  stitches. 


114.  LOOP  STITCH. — This  stitch  is  used  in  making 
very  small  leaves,  and  also  as  a  powdering.  To  work, 
bring  the  needle  to  the  surface  of  the  material,  hold  the 
thread  down  under  the  left  thumb,  put  the  needle  back 
into  the  hole  whence  it  came,  and  bring  it  out  slightly 
further  on  (according  to  the  size  of  loop  required),  still 
keeping  the  thread  held  down  close  to  the  material, 
so  that  it  docs  not  pass  over  the  working  thread  which 
is  being  drawn  through.  Put  in  the  needle  again 
almost  close  to  where  it  came  out  last,  but  over  the  loop 
thread.  This  makes  a  tiny  stitch  which  holds  the  loop 
down. 


"5 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


116 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


115.  MADEIRA  STITCH.— The  stitch  used  in 
Madeira  work.  The  same  as  Eyelet-hole  stitch  in  the 
working. 


116.  MARKING    STITCH   or  CROSS  STITCH. 
(See  Cross  stitch.) 


117 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


117.  MOSAIC  STITCHES. — These  are  arrangements 
of  stitches  so  placed  as  to  give  the  idea  of  mosaic  work. 
The  stitches  are  taken  uniformly  over  the  threads 
of  canvas  or  linen,  and  the  beauty  of  the  result  depends 
upon  its  regulaiity. 


118.  OCTAGON  STITCH.— A  small  straight  stitch 
used  in  making  outline  octagons.  It  may  be  used 
either  for  borders  or  groundings. 


119 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


120 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


119.  ORIENTAL  STITCH.— A  stitch  forming  a 
plait  not  unlike  Cretan  stitch,  The  working  resembles 
Herring-boning,  but  the  stitches  are  quite  close  together. 
The  needle  is  always  brought  up  into  a  hole  it  has 
passed  through  before.  If  worked  on  canvas  or  coarse 
material  the  threads  may  be  counted.  Bring  up  the 
needle  in  the  first  space  to  the  left  on  the  lower  line. 
Insert  the  needle  four  threads  to  the  right  on  the  top  line 
and  make  a  stitch  from  right  to  left.  Return  to  the 
lower  line  and  take  another  stitch,  bringing  up  the 
needle  into  the  same  hole  it  came  out  of  before.  Return 
to  the  top  line  and  continue  as  described,  always  bring- 
ing the  needle  up  into  the  last  hole.  This  makes  a 
succession  of  stitches  similar  to  very  close  Herring-bone, 
with  rows  of  back  stitches  on  the  reverse  side. 


120.  OUTLINE    or    STEM    STITCH.— Sometimes 
termed  Crewel  stitch.     (See  Crewel  stitch.) 


121 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


122 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


121.  OVERCASTING  STITCH.— In  embroidery 
this  is  a  kind  of  very  close  Satin  stitch.  It  must  be 
taken  from  side  to  side  of  the  space  with  great  regularity 
(a).  The  term  is  also  applied  to  a  loose  stitch  used  to 
keep  in  raw  edges  of  material  (b). 


122.  PADDING  STITCH.— Close  Satin  stitch  worked 
over  a  raised  or  padded  grounding.     (See  Couchings.) 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


124 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


123.  PALISADE  STITCH.— This  stitch  is  useful 
for  borders  where  simplicity  of  stitch  is  desirable. 
Guiding  lines  should  be  drawn. 


124.  PATCHING  STITCH. — In  ordinary  patchwork 
Seaming  stitch  is  used  (a)  ;  in  "  crazy  "  patchwork, 
where  one  raw  edge  lies  over  another,  Herring-bone 
stitch  is  the  best  to  use  (b)  ;  any  other  embroidery 
stitch  which  will  keep  the  edges  in  place  is  permissible. 


12' 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


126 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


125.  PAVEMENT  STITCH.— A  useful  stitch  for 
diapers  or  grounding  patterns.  It  is  similar  to  Brick 
stitch,  but  larger. 


126.  PEARL  STITCH.— Insert  the  needle  as  for 
Bullion  stitch  (a).  Twist  the  thread  twice  round  the 
point  (b).  Draw  the  needle  through,  insert  again  close 
by  the  first  half  of  the  stitch,  twist  the  thread  twice 
round  the  head  of  the  needle  and  once  round  the  point, 
and  draw  through  (c). 


127 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


128 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


127.  PENCIL  or  RING  STITCH.— This  stitch  is 
used  for  making  ornamental  buttons.  Wind  several 
strands  of  thick  crochet  cotton  round  a  pencil,  slip 
all  off  together,  keeping  the  ring  intact,  and  buttonhole 
round  them  very  closely. 


128.  PERSIAN  STITCH.— A  species  of  Cross  stitch. 
The  upper  part  of  the  stitch  is  always  half  the  size 
of  the  lower. 


129 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


129.  PI  COTS. —Small  ornamental  knotted  stitches 
used  in  c  mbroidery  to  decorate  edges  or  borders,  (a) 
Bullion  Picot,  founded  on  Bullion  stitch. — Make  a 
Bullion  roll  in  the  usual  way.  Draw  the  needle 
through  the  roll ;  twist  the  roll  into  a  semi-circle  on 
the  border  ;  secure  it  with  a  firm  stitch,  (b)  Button- 
hole or  Chain  Picot.— A  succession  of  Chain  stitches 
twisted  into  a  cluster.  Make  a  Chain  stitch  as  at 
(6),  then  another  inside  it,  and  so  on  for  about  six, 
keeping  the  chain  loose.  Turn  them  round  into  a 
cluster,  securing  to  the  border  with  a  firm  stitch. 
(c)  Thorn  Picot. — Place  a  pin  in  the  border  as  at  (c), 
pass  the  thread  round  the  head  and  secure  the  loop 
thus  made  in  position  by  a  stitch  in  the  border,  bringing 
out  the  needle  inside  the  loop.  Hold  the  thread  down 
with  the  left  thumb.  Insert  the  needle  as  in  the 
illustration,  under  both  the  loop  and  the  thread  which 
is  still  held  down  under  the  needle  point.  Draw  the 
needle  through,  thus  fastening  the  Picot  by  a  Button- 
hole stitch,     Withdraw  the  pin  and  proceed  similarly. 


130.  PIPING  STITCH.— A  row  of  piping  gives  a 
raised  effect  to  a  border  for  embroidered  cushions, 
etc.  A  piping-cord,  or  three  or  four  strands  of  knitting 
cotton  are  placed  in  position,  the  material  folded  over 
them,  and  the  whole  secured  in  position  either  by  simple 
running  or  by  the  utilisation  of  some  kind  of  suitable 
embroidery  stitch,  such  as  Chain,  Stem,  Cording  stitch, 
etc. 


131 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


131.  PLAITED  STITCH.— A  term  applied  to  any 
stitch  which  presents  a  plaited  appearance.  Cretan 
stitch  is  the  best  example  in  embroidery.  The  term 
is  also  applied  to  the  woven  stitch  of  which  lace  braids 
arc  formed. 


132.  PLUSH  STITCH.— This  is  in  reality  the  same 
as  Picot  (Thorn)  stitch,  being  formed  of  a  loop  made  by 
passing  the  working  thread  over  a  large  pin,  or  mesh, 
securing  it  with  a  Cross  or  Buttonhole  stitch.  The 
difference  is  that  Thorn  stitch  is  worked  on  the  edge 
of  a  border  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  straight  edge, 
while  Plush  stitch  is  so  worked  as  to  cover  considerable 
pieces  of  material,  to  form  a  kind  of  mat.  Sometimes 
the  loops  are  cut  open  and  fringed  out  with  a  pin,  so 
making  a  softer  and  thicker  mat. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


133.  POINT  DE  REPRISE.— A  stitch  much  used 
to  form  bars  in  lace  or  embroidery,  and  often  termed 
'  under-and-over  '  stitch.  Two  or  more  strands  of 
thread  are  passed  across  an  open  space  and  a  thread 
is  darned  into  these,  first  over  one  and  then  under 
another  till  the  bar  is  completed.  Any  number  of 
strands  may  be  used. 


134.  PRINCE'S  STITCH.— To  work,  hold  the  thread 
down  with  the  left  thumb  and  make  a  small  back  stitch. 
Draw  the  needle  through,  still  holding  the  loop  in  its 
place.  This  is  the  middle  loop.  Make  another  loop 
to  the  top  and  bottom,  with  a  small  back  stitch  each 
time.  Fasten  all  with  a  firm  stitch.  This  makes  a 
group  of  three  loose  loops  firmly  secured  by  a  cluster 
of  backstitches.    Proceed  similarly  tor  the  next  stitch. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


136 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


135.  QUEEN  STITCH.— A  species  of  Cross  stitch 
used  in  marking.  The  stitches  from  each  corner  and 
side  are  all  taken  into  the  centre  hole. 


136.  QUILTING  STITCH.— A  stitch  used  for  quilt- 
ing purposes.  Generally  the  stitch  is  plain  running  (a), 
but  sometimes  a  chain  stitch  is  used  to  give  a  more 
ornamental  effect  (b).  The  quilted  silk  lining  of 
embroidered  handkerchief  and  glove  cases,  scent 
sachets,  etc.,  are  worked  in  this  way. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


137.  RAILWAY  STITCH.— The  same  as  Loop 
stitch,  but  with  longer  loops  and  sometimes  an  extra 
line  along  the  centre  of  the  stitch.  It  is  suitable  for 
small  leaves  and  such  flowers  as  the  daisy. 


138.  RAISED  STITCH.— This  is  the  same  as  Pad 
ding  stitch.     (See  also  Couching.) 


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139.  RAKE  STITCH. — So  called  from  its  similarity 
to  a  rake.  It  is  formed  of  successions  of  straight  strokes, 
and  is  suitable  for  borders. 


140.  RETICELLA  STITCH.— The  chief  stitch  is 
Buttonhole  stitch,  with  Point  de  Reprise  for  bars,  and 
Picots  for  ornaments. 


141 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


141.  RICE  STITCH.— Similar  to  Dot  and  Flake 
stitch,  but  the  strokes  are  longer,  to  represent  grains 
of  rice.     It  is  used  as  a  powdering  or  grounding  stitch. 


142.  RIBBON  STITCH.— A  Satin  stitch  which 
gives  the  appearance  of  narrow  ribbon.  Overcast 
closely  and  then  backstitch  each  edge  very  evenly. 


143 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


143.  RING    STITCH. — Ornamental   rings   may   be 
made  of  (a)  Buttonhole,  (b)  Stem,  or  (c)  Chain  stitch. 


144.  RING-AND-DOT  STITCH.— One  of  the  Ring 

stitches  given  above  is  here  adapted  for  a  grounding 
pattern,  with  the  addition  of  dots.  The  other  stitches 
may  be  similarly  used. 


145  K 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


145.  ROPE    STITCH.— Almost     like    Stem    stitch 
but  worked  slightly  wider. 


146.  RUCHING  STITCH.— A  loose  running  or 
gathering  stitch  used  in  making  frillings  or  ruchings. 
The  running  is  worked  midway  between  the  edges,  and 
when  drawn  up  gives  a  frill  on  both  sides.  Suitable 
for  frilling  embroidered  pincushion  covers,  scent 
sachets,  etc. 


147 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


147.  RUG  STITCH.— (Sec  Carpet  stitch.) 


14S.  RUN-AND-LOOP  STITCH.— This  is  the 
ordinary  Loop  stitch  alternating  with  a  small  running- 
stitch.  It  makes  a  pretty  grounding  stitch,  and  the 
lines  may  be  cither  wide,  as  at  ((f),  01  closer,  as  at  (6). 


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EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


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149.  RUNNING  STITCH. — Running  consists  of 
straight  stitches  taken  along  the  material  without  any 
turning  back. 


150.  SAILOR  STITCH. — An  ornamental  stitch  form- 
ing a  small  triangle  with  a  staff.  It  is  useful  for  borders, 
as  in  (a),  (/;),  (c). 


151 


EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


152 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


151.  ST.  ANDREW'S  STITCH.— The  same  as 
Oueen  stitch,  but  without  the  side  stitches.  (See 
Queen  stitch.)  It  is  most  suitable  for  canvas  and  other 
open  material. 


152.  SAMPLER  STITCH.— The  stitch  chiefly  used 
in  sampler  work.     (See  Cross  stitch.) 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


153.  SATIN  STITCH.— A  stitch  like  very  wide 
overcasting.  A  favourite  stitch  in  embroidery  to 
cover  surfaces  with  quickly  worked  stitches.  The 
needle  is  simply  passed  across,  in  at  one  edge  of  the 
design  and  out  at  the  other.  Leaves  may  be  filled  in 
solidly  with  this  stitch. 


154.  SEAMING  STITCH.— The  stitch  used  to  join 
two  pieces  of  material  together.  The  edges  must  first 
be  turned  in  to  avoid  fraying. 


155 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


155.  SHOVEL  STITCH.— Somewhat  similar  to 
Greek  stitch,  but  with  an  additional  stroke.  Bring 
out  the  needle  at  (a),  insert  at  (b)  and  bring  out  at  (c), 
insert  at  (b)  again,  bring  out  at  (d),  in  at  (c)  and  out 
at  (d),  in  at  (a)  and  out  at  (e),  in  at  (/)  and  bring  out  at 
the  next  letter  (a)  for  another  stitch.  It  may  be  worked 
in  horizontal  or  perpendicular  rows. 


156.  SIGNAL  STITCH.— This  stitch  makes  pretty 
borders.  The.  seven  small  strokes  at  the  top  are  all 
taken  into  one  hole. 


157 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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158 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


157.  SLANTING-ARROW  STITCH.— This  is  Arrow 
stitch  placed  in  a  slanting  direction,  and  may  be  worked 
in  single  or  double  lines. 


158.  SMOCKING  STITCH.— Sometimes  termed 
Honeycomb  stitch.  The  stitch  itself  is  a  small  back 
stitch,  but  when  applied  to  material  arranged  to  fall 
in  gathers  or  diamond-shaped  folds  it  bears  the  above 
name. 


159 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


160 


KMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


159.  SMYRNA    or    RUG    STITCH.— (See     Carpet 
stitch). 


160.  SNAILTRAIL  STITCH.— A  useful  stitch  for 
stems  and  outlines  in  which  a  broken  effect  is  required. 
Bring  up  the  needle  to  the  right  side  of  the  work.  Hold 
the  thread  down  under  ihe  left  thumb  ;  pass  the  needle 
over  the  thread  and  insert  it  in  the  material  on  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  thread  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
from  where  it  came  out  :  bring  it  up  again  to  the  right 
side  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  thread.  Draw  the 
thread  through,  when  it  will  be  found  that  a  small 
straight  stitch  and  a  knot  have  been  formed.  Repeat 
the  process  at  regular  intervals. 


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161.  SPANISH  STITCH  is  a  Cross  stitch  so  worked 
as  to  form  a  Cross  stitch  within  a  square.  The  back 
of  the  stitch  is  the  same  as  the  front.  The  stitch  is  akin 
to  Square  Greek  stitch.  Sometimes  termed  Italian 
stitch. 


162.  SPIKE  STITCH.— A  pretty  little  stitch  made 
with  one  stroke  of  the  needle.  It  makes  pleasing 
borders  and  small  ornamental  groups  of  lines. 


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i6j.  SPLIT  STITCH. — A  stitch  in  which  much  of 
the  old  embroidery  was  done.  To  work,  begin  at  the 
lower  end  of  the  line  and  work  upwards  as  in  Stem 
stitch  :  every  time  the  needle  comes  out,  bring  it 
through  the  thread  it  elf,  thus  splitting  the  thread  into 
two  and  forming  a  split  stitch. 


164.  SOUARE-AND-CIRCLE  STITCH.— This  may 
be  worked  large  or  small  for  borders.  Draw  parallel 
lines  to  gauge  distances.  If  large,  work  the  squares 
and  circles  in  Sal  in  stitch  ;  if  small,  simple  outline 
stitches  are  sufficient. 


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165.  SOUARE  GREEK  STITCH.— Used  in  old 
Greek  work.  The  stitch  is  a  series  of  squares  on  the 
right  side,  and  two  parallel  lines  connected  by  slanting 
stitches  on  the  wrong.  To  work,  draw  two  parallel 
lines,  putting  dots  at  even  distances.  Bring  out  the 
needle  at  dot  2,  put  into  1  and  bring  out  at  3,  back  into 
1  and  out  at  4,  back  into  2  and  out  at  4,  into  3  and  out 
at  5,  back  to  three  and  out  at  6,  back  into  4  and  out  at  6, 
into  5  and  out  at  7,  into  5  again  and  out  at  8,  and  so  on. 


166.  STAR-AND-ARROW  STITCH.— This  com- 
bination is  extremely  pretty,  either  for  borders  or  all- 
over  patterns.  The  stars  and  arrows  should  be  two 
different  colours. 


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167.  STAR-AND-FLAG  STITCH.— Similar  to  Flag 
stitch,  but  with  ornamental  stars,  as  in  (a)  or  (b). 


168.  STAR  STITCHES,  as  the  name  implies,  are 
stitches  used  in  forming  star  shapes.  They  are 
generally  short  strokes.  Stars  may  also  be  formed  of 
Loop,  Bullion,  Railway  stitches,  etc.,  being  so  worked 
as  to  meet  in  one  centre. 


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169.  STEM  STITCH.— (See  Crewel  stitch.) 


170.  STILE  STITCH. — This  stitch  is  used  chiefly 
to  fill  up  spaces  where  a  few  detached  groups  of  lines 
are  required. 


171 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


172 


EMBROIDERY    STITCHES 


171.  STROKE  STITCH.— Similar  to  Rice  stitch, 
but  generally  rather  larger.  Some  designs  may  be 
worked  entirely  in  Stroke  stitch,  as  in  the  illustration. 


172.  TACKING  STITCH. — The  stitch  used  to  secure 
the  edges  of  turned-down  hems,  seams,  etc.,  and  to 
keep  the  different  portions  of  embroidery  flat  on 
the  material.  Long  running  loose  stitches  with  an 
occasional  back  stitch. 


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173.  TAMBOUR  STITCH.— A  Chain  stitch  made 
by  means  of  a  tambour  or  crochet  needle  (a) .  Tambour 
work  must  always  be  done  in  a  frame,  as  the  material 
requires  to  be  stretched  quite  tightly.  The  round 
embroidery  frames  now  used  take  their  name  from 
those  originally  used  only  for  tambour  work  (b). 


174.  TAPESTRY    STITCH.— Usually    termed 
Gobelin  stitch.     (See  Gobelin  stitch.) 


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EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


175.  TASSEL  STITCH.- — For  this  stitch  make  a 
heading  of  three  or  four  parallel  stitches.  Add  long 
stitches  to  represent  the  tassel  shape. 


176.  TELEGRAPH    STITCH.— A    pretty    border 
stitch  of  long  and  short  lines,  effective  in  two  colours. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


177.  TENT  STITCH.— A  stitch  much  used  in  old 
tapestries,  sometimes  referred  to  as  Petit  stitch.  It 
is  a  Half-cross  stitch,  worked  over  one  thread  of  the 
canvas. 


178.  THORN   STITCH.— One   of  the  methods   of 
making  Picots.     (See  Picots.) 


179 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


180 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


179.  THREE-LINE  STITCH.— A  simple  stitch 
worked  in  straight  lines.  This  stitch  is  very  pretty 
with  a  different  colour  for  the  centre  line  of  each  group. 


180.  THREp-POINT  STITCH.— A  stitch  formed  of 
three  stroke  stitches,  and  suitable  for  powdering. 
The  strokes  need  not  necessarily  be  equidistant. 


181 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


182 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


181.  TREBLE-DOT  STITCH,— This  is  Dot  stitch 
arranged  for  a  grounding  or  powdering.  Groups  of 
four,  five,  or  more  dots  may  be  similarly  used. 


182.  TREBLE  FEATHER  STITCH.— This  is 
Feather  stitch  with  clusters  of  three  strokes  each.  (See 
Feather  stitch.) 


183 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


184 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


183.  TREE  STITCH.— A  stitch  used  in  working 
small  branches,  or  in  representing  the  roughened  bark 
of  trees  in  Natural  Needlework.  Bring  the  needle  to 
the  upper  surface  of  the  material.  Take  up  as  much  as 
desirable  on  the  needle  (as  for  Bullion  stitch)  ;  bring 
the  point  of  the  needle  out  where  the  thread  is  (a). 
Draw  the  needle  through,  and  work  along  the  line 
with  a  slight  stitch  as  in  backward  seaming,  taking  the 
needle  through  the  material  and  keeping  the  thread 
as  uneven  as  possible  to  give  a  roughened  appearance 
(b).  Groups  of  lines  worked  close  together  represent 
bark. 


184.  TRIANGLE  STITCH.— Three  stroke  stitches 
forming  a  triangular  stitch  for  borders. 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


185.  TRILBY  STITCH.— Insert  the  needle  as  for 
French  knots.  Wind  the  thread  six  times  round  the 
point  of  the  needle,  then  six  times  round  the  head, 
then  once  round  the  point  again.  Hold  the  stitches 
firmly  with  the  thumb,  and  draw  the  needle  through. 
The  result  is  two  opposite  clusters  of  knots  with  a 
plaited  thread  between. 


186.  TRINITY   STITCH.— Three   stitches   for  one 
complete  stitch.     Useful  for  powderings. 


187 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


187.  TRIPLE  ARROW  STITCH.— This  is  Arrow 
stitch  placed  in  upright  and  slanting  positions  to  form 
borders. 


188.  TUFTED  STITCH.— The  working  of  this  is  the 
same  as  for  Plush  stitch,  which  see  for  description. 


189 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


189.  UPRIGHT  DIAMOND  STITCH.— This  is  use- 
ful for  work  on  open  canvas  where  the  threads  may  be 
readily  counted. 


190.  VEINING  STITCHES.— The  stitches  used  for 
the  veining  of  leaves  may  be  either  Stem,  Split,  Chain, 
or  any  other  stitch  which  makes  a  good  and  even  line. 


191 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


192 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


191.  VARIEGATED  FLAG  STITCH.— This  stitch 
is  similar  to  Flag  stitch,  but  more  ornamental. 


192.  WATCHGUARD  STITCH.— This  is  the  stitch 
used  for  making  embroidered  watch-guards.  Pro- 
cure small  rings,  and  work  round  and  round  in  close 
Buttonhole  stitch  with  strong  silk.  Add  fresh  rings 
where  required,  and  take  the  stitches  over  the  two  rings 
at  the  joinings. 


193 


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EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


193.  WATER  STITCH.— A  stitch  used  to  represent 
water.  It  consists  of  irregular  long  stitches  with  an 
occasional  short  one. 


194.  WAVED  CHAIN  STITCH.— The  waving  of 
the  line  affords  a  pleasing  change  from  the  ordinary 
straight  line  of  Chain  stitch.  The  waves  may  be  of 
any  width. 


195 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


195.  WAVED  RUCHING  STITCH.— This  is  the 
same  stitch  as  for  ordinary  niching,  but  the  running 
being  done  in  waves  gives  variety  in  the  niched  edge 
when  completed. 


196.  WEAVING  STITCH.— A  term  applied  to  the 
stitches  used  in  pillow-lace,  and  also  to  needlework 
stitches  where  the  needle  executes  any  kind  of  weaving, 
e.g.,  darning. 


197 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


198 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


197.  WHEAT-EAR  STITCH.— So  called  from  its 
resemblance  to  wheat.  The  stitch  is  formed  of  two  rows 
of  spikes  with  a  Chain  stitch  between.  To  work,  draw 
three  parallel  lines  as  a  guide.  Bring  up  the  needle 
on  the  centre  line.  Make  a  Chain  stitch.  Insert  the 
needle  on  the  right-hand  line  at  the  same  level  as  the 
Chain  stitch  ;  bring  it  out  in  the  Chain  stitch,  and  draw 
the  thread  through.  Similarly,  insert  the  needle  in 
the  left-hand  line  and  make  another  stitch,  bringing 
out  the  needle  as  before  in  the  Chain  stitch.  This 
gives  two  series  of  spikes,  each  couple  ending  within  the 
Chain  stitch.  The  stitch  may  be  worked  also  with 
spikes  on  one  side  and  Bullion  stitches  on  the  other. 
It  is  useful  for  sprays,  grass,  ferns,  etc. 


198.  WHIP  STITCH.— See  Frilling  stitch. 


199 


EMBROIDERY   STITCHES 


200 


EMBROIDERY  STITCHES 


199.  WHEEL  STITCHES.— Wheels  are  made  in 
various  ways,  according  to  the  kind  of  needlework  of 
which  they  form  a  part  : — 

(a)  Buttonhole  wheel — a  circle  surrounded  by 
Button-hole  stitch. 

(b)  Bullion  wheel — formed  of  Bullion  stitches. 

(c)  Plain  wheel,  as  used  in  lacework. 

(d)  Ornamental  wheel,  as  used  in  lacework. 

(e)  Loop  wheel,  formed  of  loops. 

(/)  Plain  wheel,  formed  of  single  strokes. 


200.  ZIGZAG   STITCH.— Guiding  lines  should  be 
drawn  for  this  stitch,  which  is  very  suitable  for  borders. 


201 


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